Here's my front door for the barbershop. I know it's not perfect - my lines are a little wavy - especially with the bottom part of the glass. I got in a hurry and didn't push the leading material just a little southward on the right-hand side. I may end up having to redo that part.
That's the fun part about using this stained glass material on glass. You can scrape it off and do it again. Or, you can create various stained glass windows using a template and do the "glass" on a piece of special plastic. If you like what you've created, you can trim it to size and insert it into your window.
I tried doing it the old-fashioned way - placing my leading on the glass and then adding the color stains. The advantage of doing it that way is that I know my colors will truly bleed to the edges of the window frame. Had I done it on the plastic sheet and THEN cut it out for the window, there's the chance that a tiny sliver of light would show around the edge, and that would not be realistic looking, either.
For those of you who are curious about what I used and where I got the stained glass "stuff", I purchased it at the Michaels store here in town. I'm sure you can purchase it online, too. I bought a kit, since I knew I didn't need a lot of the staining gel. It's interesting stuff to use. The "leading" is available either in a tube or in sheets that you can cut. I chose the sheets, since I was certain that I could not pour out a line that was about 1/32" wide. One of the leading sheets comes pre-marked at 1/16" widths. For miniatures, though, that would be far too wide! Even 1/32" is a bit bulky, but that's about the best I could do with trimming this stuff on my first go-round. When you add the colors, they look quite opaque. It's deceptive, because you think, "Oh dear! This won't look good!" Then it dries into much brighter, slightly translucent, jewel tones. Now I'm wondering why I never did more of this with my dollhouses! It was a lot of fun and easy to do.
If you're wondering, the I left the center of the window as plain glass. They make an etched glass material that I could have used, but I want the "Open" sign to be hanging in the glass from the back side. It's a little more realistic to have that be clear glass for the barbershop, too, I think.
And if you're wondering what the brand is, it's Gallery Glass by Plaid. ;o)
5 comments:
Your door looks great! Thanks for sharing the kit and where to find one. I was at Michael's last weekend but didn't see this. Next trip I'm going to have to get one! This looks like fun! Looks very realistic too.
Thanks George! You mention the etching material, is that by Plaid also?
PS You could always come up with a story about a drunk glazier to 'cover your tracks' re the wavy lines ;) Also had to laugh at your last post about the 20 yr old paints, too funny!
This looks great George !
I have been trying somestained glass for my toy shop side door and window but I used liquid "lead" and it was not easy .... I am treating the first try as practice and will follow your lead I think and used the leading strips cut down .
julie xx
I think it it perfect. Antique glass which is what most stained glass was is always wavy. I love antique glass. Cheers CM
Thank you for your nice comments, everyone! When I get some of the furniture into the barbershop, I'll show you a picture of how it's beginning to shape up!
G.
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